Embroidery Instructions

Double Applique and Reverse Applique

You can stitch this design in 2 different ways:

A. Double Layer Applique
B. Reverse Applique

Stitch Types

The appliqué designs may use two different stitch types: running stitch and satin stitch.

● When using the running stitch, the raw edge of the fabric will remain visible.

● When using the satin stitch, the edge will have a clean finished look. Before embroidering the final satin stitches, trim away the excess appliqué fabric. Then place your project back into the machine and complete the final satin stitch.

Scissors

Sharp scissors are essential. Use curved embroidery scissors to trim the fabric close to the seam. If you have appliqué scissors with a paddle-shaped blade, they help push the bottom fabric out of the way, making it much easier to trim close to the stitches.

Preparation and Stabilizer

I recommend using a medium-weight nonwoven tear-away stabilizer for this type of design. Tear-away works great for this project, but you can also use adhesive stabilizer or any stabilizer you prefer, depending on your experience and what works best with your fabric and machine.

You will also need two contrasting fabrics (one for the larger base and one for the smaller top layer).

Colors

1. Color 1 - Placement stitch
2. Color 2 - Larger Outline
3. Color 3 - Smaller Outline

A. Double Layer Appliqué

Double layer (or stacked) appliqué creates a dynamic, 3D effect by layering one fabric shape on top of a larger one.

In the images below, I use:

● Blue T-shirt
● White appliqué fabric for the larger base
● Red appliqué fabric for the smaller top layer

Step 1. Hoop your garment with stabilizer.

Step 2. Stitch Color 1 – the placement stitch.

Step 3. Lay a piece of appliqué fabric flat over the design. Use pins or tape to hold it firmly in place. It’s important that your project does not shift while stitching.

Make sure the appliqué fabric fully covers the design.

Step 4. Stitch Color 2 – the tack-down stitch that secures the appliqué fabric.

Step 5. Take the hoop out of the machine, but do NOT unhoop your project yet.

Step 6. Carefully trim the excess fabric close to the stitches.

The photo below shows the project in progress:

Step 7. Lay another piece of appliqué fabric flat over the design.

Use pins or tape to hold it firmly in place.

Step 8. Stitch Color 3 – the tack-down stitch.

Step 9. Carefully trim the excess fabric close to the stitches.

In the image below, I am trimming the appliqué fabric inside the number zero.

Carefully make a small cut inside the shape, insert the tip of your scissors, and continue trimming close to the inside edge of the running stitch.

Your project is complete!

Now you know how to use double layer appliqué with machine embroidery to create unique projects.

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B. Reverse Appliqué

Reverse appliqué is a technique where two or more layers of fabric are stitched together, then sections of the top layer are trimmed away to reveal the fabric underneath.

Reverse appliqué adds depth, texture, and dimension to your project. These types of designs are a fun way to embellish T-shirts, sweatshirts, pillows, tote bags, table runners, wall art, quilt blocks, and more.

Step 1. Hoop stabilizer together with appliqué fabric. I recommend using a contrasting color or any color that works well with your garment.