Bunnies – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
Plush Bunny ITH Tutorial
Hoop a tear-away stabilizer with one piece of minky fabric. It is recommended to use bi-stretch fabric that stretches in both length and width. However, the bunnies can also be made from medium-weight cotton fabric, which may require more skill when turning the pieces right side out.
These designs are made for a 5x7 hoop, but I used a larger one to make two bunnies at once. I also recommend using a larger hoop, as it makes it easier to manage the small pieces.
Included Design Files
The download folder includes the following files:
- Bunny_ears
- Bunny_paws
- Bunny_body
- Bunny_dress
- Bunny_trousers
To make a bunny, you will need to prepare the paws and ears first.
Embroidering the Paws
- Hoop a tear-away stabilizer with minky or medium-weight cotton fabric that has been folded in half with right sides together.
- Sew the outline stitch.
- When the design has finished, unhoop your project.
- Gently tear away the excess stabilizer and cut out the paw shapes.
- Trim and clip your seam allowances to reduce bulk. I trim and clip the curved edges so they will lie flat when turned. Be careful not to cut the seam!
- Turn the paws right side out.
Embroidering the Ears
- Hoop a tear-away stabilizer with minky or medium-weight cotton fabric.
- Sew the first seam, which is the outline and placement line for the inner ear appliqué.
- Lay the inner ear fabric right inside the shape. I recommend using a heat-and-bond adhesive so the appliqué fabric edges do not fray.
- Sew the appliqué tack-down stitch.
- Trim the excess appliqué fabric.
- Place the second piece of fabric (for the ear backing) right side down, covering the embroidered ears, and sew the final ear outline seam.
- When the design has finished, unhoop your project.
- Gently tear away the excess stabilizer and cut out the ear shapes.
- Trim and clip the seam allowances to reduce bulk, especially around the curved edges.
Assembling the Bunny Body
Hoop a tear-away stabilizer with one piece of minky fabric.
Stitch the bunny outline, eyes, nose, and cheeks. When all the facial features are stitched, pause the machine before the final outline seam.
Now it is time to attach the paws and ears. Lay them inside the stitched outline, facing inward.
This is the most complicated step. Lay the pieces one by one and secure them with tape. I am impatient, so I laid them all at once and taped them down.
- The "legs" (bottom paws) should be pointing up.
- The "hands" (arm paws) should be crisscrossed over the body.
- The ears should be pointing down into the body.
It is helpful to use tape to ensure the pieces stay flat while stitching.
Optional: You can run the final outline stitch once to tack the pieces in place, then go back one step on your machine and continue with the instructions below.
Lay the second piece of fabric on top with right sides together and stitch the final outline.
Stitch the final seam outline. Choose a thread color that is close to your fabric color.
Finishing the Bunny
Unhoop the project and cut out the shape. I used pinking shears, but you can also cut it out with regular scissors and clip the seam allowance every ⅓ inch.
Clip the seam allowances along the curves, getting as close as possible to the seam without cutting it. The most important cuts are around the neck area.
Remember, do not cut the seam!
Gently tear away the stabilizer and turn the bunny right side out through the opening left in the seam.
Fill the bunny with stuffing. Fill it tightly to get a good shape.
Now it is time to give the bunny's head a proper round shape.
Pin the opening closed and sew it shut by hand.
Stitching with two strands of thread will provide added strength to your finished seam. Manipulate the fabric with your fingers, folding the raw edges of the opening inward. Use the stitched guideline on the bunny's face to guide you as you sew.
Now, let’s stitch! Hide the knotted end of your thread inside the project.
When I completed the seam, I realized it would have been better to use a ladder stitch. I did not do so, but you can find a tutorial here: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbE5hXt27uU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbE5hXt27uU)
Note how I pinch both sides of the seam together as I work to pull things nice and taut. This helps ensure your stitching is even.
You will continue this process until you reach the end of the opening. Secure the thread and hide the tail inside the head.
Congratulations on finishing the hardest seam of your project!
Making the Clothing
Again, I am impatient and am making all the clothing at once, which may be confusing. My apologies!
Pants and Pillowcase Dress
Both garments are stitched in the same way. There is no difference between them except for the additional heart appliqué on the pants and the inseam between the legs.
- Hoop a tear-away stabilizer and sew the clothing guidelines directly onto it.
- Take a piece of fabric and fold it in half.
- Oh, I forgot to mention: hem the bottom edge first. This is optional, but I like it when the dress has a finished look.
- Lay the folded fabric right inside the stitched guidelines. The folded edge will be the top of the dress or pants, and the hemmed edge will be the bottom.
- Stitch the first tack-down seam and any decorative details.
- When the embroidery is finished, pause before the last seam (the side seams for the dress, and the side seams plus inseam for the pants).
- Fold the second piece of fabric the same way you did for the front (hemmed at the bottom) and lay it right inside the shape with right sides facing.
- It is helpful to use tape to ensure the fabric stays flat while stitching.
- Stitch the side seams (and inseam for the pants).
- Unhoop the project and cut out the shape.
- Turn the garment right side out and insert a ribbon through the top casing for the ties.
For the pants, before turning them right side out, make a clip in the seam allowance at the crotch (inseam), getting as close as possible to the seam without cutting it.
Turn the pants right side out.
Insert the ribbon for the ties.
