How To Make
- PLUSHIES
- → Pretty Tiger – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Cow family – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Leopard - In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Leopard - In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Kitty – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Bunnies – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Pretty Foxes 🦊 In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Simple snowballs
- → Snowballs
- ALPHA & FONTS
- → Text Along a Curve
- → Raggedy App Duo fonts
- → Puffy foam fonts
- → Puffy Fonts Videos
- → Glitter HTV
- → Glitter HTV Alphabets
- → Glitter HTV in embroidery
- → Ombre Iridescent 2 Color Fonts
- → Patchwork style Applique fonts
- → Split Greek
- → Candy Stitch Fonts
- → Fringed Double Layer Applique
- → Circle BX Font (Embrilliance)
- → Working with alphabets
- SOFTWARE & SETUP
- → Materials & Process FAQ
- → How to unzip
- → Resize Embroidery Designs
- → Alphabets in PE-Design 11
- → Tajima Pulse software
- → About ESA Files
- → Quality Imports in Wilcom
- → Files in Wilcom
- → Quality Imports in Hatch
- → Hatch 3? Map Alphabets
- → Use Alphabets in Embird
- → Fonts with Your Bernina
- → ART Bernina Machines
- → Fonts in Melco DesignShop
- → Font Editor (Luxe) in Chroma
- FRINGE
- → Fringed Rainbow
- → Fringed Pom-Poms
- → Fringed designs
- → Fringe Embroidery videos
- → Llama Fringed designs
- GAMES & LEARNING
- → Math multiplication table game
- → Puzzle designs
- → Memory game Pumpkins
- → Shapes Memory game
- → Little Chef oven mitts
- → Little Chef hot pot holder
- → Farm memory game
- ACCESSORIES
- → Key cover
- → Fringe key fob
- → Puffy key fobs
- → Keychain in the hoop
- → Envelope to Santa Felt project
- → Pineapple Zipped Bag
- → Zipped Bag
- → Zipper Bag
- → Video for a Zipper Purse
- → Zipper Lined Bag
- → Biker key case
- → Fabric and Felt Bows
- → Kindle Sleeve
- → Apple Airtag Key Pocket
- → Face Mask in the hoop
- → Zipper bag with a flap
- CLOTHING DETAILS
- → Lace split seam
- → Split seams in short
- → Neckline cutout
- →Doctor side seam Bow
- → 3D BUTTERFLY
- → Bunny Head 3D
- → Unicorn 3D
- → Unicorn 3D
- → Lamb head 3D
- → Seamstress Pockets
- → Teacup Pockets
- HOME DECOR
- → Fringed Edge Napkins
- → Crown bow holder
- → Full Christmas Stockings
- → Simply Christmas Stockings
- → Ornaments
- → Ginger Stocking felt project
- → Gingham Christmas ornaments
- → In-the-hoop Gingerbread
- → Gnome towel topper
- → Gingerbread Stuffies
- → Towel Topper
- → Towel hanging hole
- → Cat Towel Topper
- → Sloth Towel hanging hole
- → Towel Hanging Holes
- → Curtain holes
- → Christmas ornaments
- → 3D Fabric and Felt Bows
- → Felt Bow Folding
- → Fringed FSL Napkin Rings
- → Halloween Napkin
- → Coasters
- FSL LACE
- → Bow hanger ribbon FSL
- → Create FSL Earrings
- → FSL the "Succulentes"
- → Lace FSL Hibiscus
- → FSL roses floral crown
- → Cat Lace FSL bow
- → Assembly: Lace FSL bow
- → FSL 3D Dragonfly
- → 3D Bow
- OTHER
- → Bee Ribbon Appliqué
- → Tooth Fairy pillow
- → Tooth Fairy pillow Tooth
Neckline cutout machine embroidery designs
Decorative Neckline Cutout Tutorial
Watch the Video Tutorial
This tutorial provides standard embroidery instructions for all decorative neckline designs.
Materials Needed & Their Purpose
- T-Shirt or Desired Garment: This is the fabric you will be embroidering on. Any soft or stretchy fabric may require extra stabilization.
- Iron-On Lightweight Stabilizer (Optional for Stretchy Fabrics): This helps reinforce soft or stretchy fabrics, preventing distortion during embroidery. It is especially useful for T-shirts and knit fabrics.
-
Medium-Weight Tear-Away or Wash-Away Fabric-Type Stabilizer:
- Tear-Away Stabilizer: Used for stable fabrics and designs that don’t require a see-through finish. It provides support and can be easily torn away after stitching.
- Wash-Away Stabilizer: Best for delicate fabrics or lace designs. It dissolves in water, leaving no residue behind.
- Pins or Fabric Marker: These help mark the garment's center and align it properly with the embroidery placement guide. Pins are preferred to avoid leaving ink marks.
- Scissors: Used for trimming excess fabric after tack-down stitching and for making clean, precise cuts around the neckline.
Recommended Scissors
I use scissors from Fiskars and Kai, which I truly adore. You can find them on Amazon at the following links:
- Kai 4-inch Curved Needlecraft Scissors: https://www.amazon.com/Kai-4-inch-Curved-Needlecraft-Scissors/dp/B008AY90PY
- Fiskars Curved Craft Scissors, Orange: https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-98087097J-Curved-Scissors-Orange/dp/B000B7OSS2
While I find Kai scissors to be superior, they pose a higher risk of cutting through the base fabric. Fiskars scissors, on the other hand, may require sharpening after some use. For that, the Fiskars Clip-Sharp Scissors Sharpener is an excellent choice, available here: https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-6411501960078-Clip-Sharp-Total-Length/dp/B001GHV3AM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
Overall, my preference leans towards Kai for their quality.
- Water-Soluble Topping (WSS Topping): This is placed over the fabric before stitching to prevent stitches from sinking into soft or textured fabrics. It enhances stitch clarity and is removed with water after embroidery.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the Garment and Stabilizer
- Turn the shirt inside out.
- If your fabric is soft or stretchy, iron a lightweight stabilizer onto the wrong side where the neckline will be. This helps keep the fabric stable while stitching. This step is optional.
- Mark the center of the shirt using a pin or a disappearing fabric marker. A pin is recommended to avoid ink residue.
Step 2: Stitch the Placement Line on Stabilizer
- Hoop a medium-weight tear-away stabilizer and stitch the placement outline using the embroidery machine.
- This outline ensures the correct neckline shape and serves as a guide for alignment.
Step 3: Align and Secure the Garment
Proper alignment is crucial for achieving a professional and symmetrical neckline. Follow these steps to ensure accuracy:
- Find and Mark the Center: Before placing the garment on the stabilizer, identify the exact center of the design area. You can do this by folding the T-shirt in half lengthwise and pressing lightly to create a crease, then using a fabric marker or pin to mark the center point.
- Place the T-Shirt Over the Placement Line: Lay the garment on top of the placement outline that was stitched onto the stabilizer. Ensure the center mark on the garment aligns perfectly with the center of the outline.
- Set the Sides for Even Alignment: Once the center is set, smooth out the fabric and ensure both sides of the neckline align symmetrically with the placement line. Adjust the fabric as needed.
- Secure the Garment: To prevent shifting, pin around the edges of the neckline (outside the embroidery area), use embroidery tape, or apply a light mist of temporary embroidery spray adhesive to keep the fabric flat and secure on the stabilizer.
- Ensure the Fabric is Completely Flat: Smooth out any wrinkles or folds before starting the embroidery. Double-check that the neckline is evenly positioned.
Step 4: Stitch the Tack-Down Seam
Once secured, you’re ready to proceed. Run the next step in the embroidery design, which will tack down the fabric to the stabilizer before cutting.
Step 5: Trim the Fabric
- Before continuing, carefully trim the excess fabric from inside the neckline along the tack-down stitches.
- Cut close to the seam for a clean finish.
- If you are using an additional appliqué technique for decorative elements, stop the machine after the placement and tack-down stitches for those elements, trim the extra fabric, and then resume stitching.
Step 6: Embroider the Satin Edge
- Stitch the decorative satin edge around the neckline to give it a polished, professional finish.
- If the design includes extra details like lace edges or other decorative elements, complete those steps as per the embroidery file sequence.
Step 7: Finish and Remove Stabilizer
- Carefully trim or tear away the excess stabilizer from the back.
- If using a water-soluble stabilizer for lace edges, rinse it under warm water to dissolve it. Now your embroidered neckline is complete!
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