Materials & Process FAQ

Your Guide to Materials and Stitching Techniques

General & Getting Started

What does "in-the-hoop" (ITH) mean?

An in-the-hoop (ITH) project is one that is almost entirely completed within the embroidery hoop on your machine. This method allows you to create fully finished or nearly finished items like stuffies, key fobs, and bags with minimal hand sewing.

The instructions often say "do not unhoop your project," but then tell me to work on the back. What's the difference?

This is a crucial step in ITH embroidery. "Removing the hoop from the machine" means simply unclipping the entire hoop from the embroidery unit so you can access the back. "Unhooping the project" means releasing the fabric and stabilizer from the hoop's tension. You should only remove the hoop from the machine to tape backing fabric on, then re-attach it to continue stitching. You should never unhoop the project until the very last stitch is complete.

How do I unzip the design files after downloading?

On a Windows PC, right-click the zipped folder and select "Extract All..." On a Mac, simply double-click the zipped folder to decompress it. The unzipped files will appear in the same location.

Materials (Fabrics, Stabilizers, Threads)

What kind of stabilizer should I use?

Most of these projects recommend a medium-weight tear-away stabilizer. For designs with a high stitch count (like towel toppers), using a double layer is often suggested. For freestanding lace (FSL) projects like earrings and napkins, a water-soluble stabilizer (WSS) is required. A fabric-style WSS (like Vilene) is often recommended over a film-type for better results.

What fabrics are best for the plush toys (bunnies, tigers, snowballs, etc.)?

A bi-stretch fabric (that stretches in both length and width), like minky, is highly recommended. These projects can also be made with medium-weight cotton, but this requires more skill and care when turning the pieces right side out. For non-stretch fabrics, one tutorial suggests adding a small fold in the backing fabric to prevent seams from pulling.

What is a "non-fraying" material?

This refers to materials that do not unravel when cut. The tutorials recommend materials like vinyl, faux leather, marine vinyl, or felt for projects like key fobs.

When should I use a water-soluble topping (WSS Topping)?

A water-soluble topping should be placed over fluffy or textured fabrics (like minky, sherpa, or towels) before embroidering. This prevents the stitches from sinking into the fabric's pile and ensures the design details are crisp and clear.

In-the-Hoop (ITH) Techniques

How do I add a backing or lining to my project?

This is a standard ITH technique. After all the front embroidery is complete, you will pause the machine and remove the hoop (do not unhoop!). Turn the hoop over to the back side, place your backing fabric over the stitched area, and secure it with tape or pins. Then, return the hoop to the machine to stitch the final outline, which will sew the front and back together.

How does appliqué work in these designs?

The process is typically done in three steps:

1. Placement Stitch: An outline is stitched onto your base fabric to show you where to place the appliqué piece.
2. Tack-Down Stitch: After placing your appliqué fabric over the outline, a second stitch sews it down.
3. Trim: You then carefully trim the excess appliqué fabric from around the tack-down stitch before the final satin stitch covers the raw edge.

Specialty Techniques

How do I create the fringe effect?

Fringe is created from long, loose satin stitches. After the entire design is stitched, you turn the hoop to the back and carefully cut only the bobbin thread that runs down the center of these satin stitches. Once cut, you turn the project back to the front and gently fluff the released threads with the tip of your scissors to create the fringe.

How do I use puffy foam for 3D letters?

First, stitch a placement dieline on your stabilizer. Place the puff foam over the dieline and stitch the next step, which perforates the foam. Tear away the excess foam from around the letter shape. Finally, place your main fabric (like vinyl) over the foam and stitch the final letter outline. The satin stitches will cover the foam and create a raised, 3D effect.

The zipper bag instructions seem complicated. Can you summarize them?

Certainly. The general process is: 1) Stitch a placement line on the stabilizer. 2) Tape the zipper in place and stitch the tack-down. 3) Add the front fabric panels above and below the zipper. 4) Turn the hoop over and add the lining panels in the same way. 5) Unzip the zipper halfway. 6) Place the main back fabric on the front and the final lining piece on the back. 7) Stitch the final outline to sew everything together.

Finishing Touches

Why do I need to clip the curves and corners?

Clipping the seam allowances on curved areas (like necks and ears on stuffies) and corners helps reduce bulk. This allows the seams to lie flat and smooth once the project is turned right side out. Always be careful not to cut the stitches!

What is a ladder stitch?

The ladder stitch (or invisible stitch) is a hand-sewing technique used to close the openings on stuffed toys. It creates a very clean, nearly invisible seam. The plush toy tutorials provide a video link showing how to do it.

Software & Design Files

How do I use the alphabet files if I don't have special embroidery software?

You can load the individual letter files (e.g., PES, DST) onto a USB drive and transfer them to your embroidery machine. Most machines have an "ADD" or "MERGE" function that allows you to combine the letters on the machine's screen to build words and names. Or use the Embrilliance Express.

What are BX files?

BX files are a special format for use with Embrilliance software (including the free version, Embrilliance Express). They allow you to install a purchased alphabet as a keyboard font, so you can simply type out your words instead of placing letters one by one.

My design looks distorted or incorrect in my software (Hatch/Wilcom). What's wrong?

This is likely because your software is automatically converting the stitch file into outline objects, which can remove or alter important stitch settings. To fix this, you need to change your import settings. Look for an "Options" button when opening the file and ensure you are importing it as "imported stitches" (also called EMB Grade D) and that any options for "auto-conversion" or "auto-connections" are turned off.