How To Make
- PLUSHIES
- → Pretty Tiger – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Cow family – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Leopard - In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Leopard - In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Kitty – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Bunnies – In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Pretty Foxes 🦊 In The Hoop Plushie Toy
- → Simple snowballs
- → Snowballs
- ALPHA & FONTS
- → Text Along a Curve
- → Raggedy App Duo fonts
- → Puffy foam fonts
- → Puffy Fonts Videos
- → Glitter HTV
- → Glitter HTV Alphabets
- → Glitter HTV in embroidery
- → Ombre Iridescent 2 Color Fonts
- → Patchwork style Applique fonts
- → Split Greek
- → Candy Stitch Fonts
- → Fringed Double Layer Applique
- → Circle BX Font (Embrilliance)
- → Working with alphabets
- SOFTWARE & SETUP
- → Materials & Process FAQ
- → How to unzip
- → Resize Embroidery Designs
- → Alphabets in PE-Design 11
- → Tajima Pulse software
- → About ESA Files
- → Quality Imports in Wilcom
- → Files in Wilcom
- → Quality Imports in Hatch
- → Hatch 3? Map Alphabets
- → Use Alphabets in Embird
- → Fonts with Your Bernina
- → ART Bernina Machines
- → Fonts in Melco DesignShop
- → Font Editor (Luxe) in Chroma
- FRINGE
- → Fringed Rainbow
- → Fringed Pom-Poms
- → Fringed designs
- → Fringe Embroidery videos
- → Llama Fringed designs
- GAMES & LEARNING
- → Math multiplication table game
- → Puzzle designs
- → Memory game Pumpkins
- → Shapes Memory game
- → Little Chef oven mitts
- → Little Chef hot pot holder
- → Farm memory game
- ACCESSORIES
- → Key cover
- → Fringe key fob
- → Puffy key fobs
- → Keychain in the hoop
- → Envelope to Santa Felt project
- → Pineapple Zipped Bag
- → Zipped Bag
- → Zipper Bag
- → Video for a Zipper Purse
- → Zipper Lined Bag
- → Biker key case
- → Fabric and Felt Bows
- → Kindle Sleeve
- → Apple Airtag Key Pocket
- → Face Mask in the hoop
- → Zipper bag with a flap
- CLOTHING DETAILS
- → Lace split seam
- → Split seams in short
- → Neckline cutout
- →Doctor side seam Bow
- → 3D BUTTERFLY
- → Bunny Head 3D
- → Unicorn 3D
- → Unicorn 3D
- → Lamb head 3D
- → Seamstress Pockets
- → Teacup Pockets
- HOME DECOR
- → Fringed Edge Napkins
- → Crown bow holder
- → Full Christmas Stockings
- → Simply Christmas Stockings
- → Ornaments
- → Ginger Stocking felt project
- → Gingham Christmas ornaments
- → In-the-hoop Gingerbread
- → Gnome towel topper
- → Gingerbread Stuffies
- → Towel Topper
- → Towel hanging hole
- → Cat Towel Topper
- → Sloth Towel hanging hole
- → Towel Hanging Holes
- → Curtain holes
- → Christmas ornaments
- → 3D Fabric and Felt Bows
- → Felt Bow Folding
- → Fringed FSL Napkin Rings
- → Halloween Napkin
- → Coasters
- FSL LACE
- → Bow hanger ribbon FSL
- → Create FSL Earrings
- → FSL the "Succulentes"
- → Lace FSL Hibiscus
- → FSL roses floral crown
- → Cat Lace FSL bow
- → Assembly: Lace FSL bow
- → FSL 3D Dragonfly
- → 3D Bow
- OTHER
- → Bee Ribbon Appliqué
- → Tooth Fairy pillow
- → Tooth Fairy pillow Tooth
Glitter HTV in embroidery
Glitter HTV in Embroidery Tutorial
This tutorial explains how to create designs using glitter heat transfer vinyl (HTV), either directly on an item or as a separate “patch” that can be attached later.
Recommended Materials
- Glitter HTV (Heat Transfer Vinyl) or any other non-adhesive HTV.
- For the inner letter, you can use minky fabric, terry cloth, or faux fur. Ensure that your chosen fabric can withstand the ironing temperature required for the HTV to adhere properly.
Terry cloth fabric (left) or faux fur (right):
Chapter 1: Embroidering Directly on a Garment
In the photo below, the letters on the shirt are sewn on directly, while the letters on the shorts are iron-on patches.
There are many different ways to work with glitter HTV. I recommend stitching it directly to the garment to prevent accidental tearing, as it can be soft and thin. It is also possible to make patches to iron on later, but this requires special attention. Depending on the type of glitter vinyl you have, always do a test stitch first, as specialty fabrics can act differently.
Stitching Instructions
Hoop your item and thread the machine.
This design starts with an outline tack-down stitch. You can run this stitch first as a placement guide to indicate the position, and then step back in the design on your machine.
Take a piece of your HTV and remove the clear carrier sheet.
Lay the heat transfer vinyl piece directly on the fabric over the placement stitch. The adhesive side will help it stay in place while you sew the tack-down stitch.
Continue stitching as you would for a typical appliqué design. The inner (fur) letter position run stitch will be next. Lay the fur fabric right inside the shape and tack it down with the next color, as shown in the photo below.
Trim around the fur letter as close as possible to the seam.
Stitch the satin outline to finish the fur fabric edges.
Trim the outer glitter HTV along the stitch line before ironing.
Next, iron the design while it is still in the hoop. Press down on your iron and apply pressure to each part of the design for around 10-20 seconds. Some types of HTV will require more or less heat. Press and hold, then move to the next area. It is recommended to cover your garment with a cover sheet or craft paper to prevent burning.
Chapter 2: Making an HTV Patch
Making a patch is a good option when it is not possible to stitch directly on an item, but remember that the item must be able to withstand the required temperature for the HTV to adhere properly.
Stitching Instructions
The patch-making process is the same as described above. Hoop a light- or medium-weight tear-away stabilizer. A lighter stabilizer is better, as it will be easier to remove later.
Lay a scrap piece of HTV (with the carrier sheet already removed) onto the tear-away stabilizer.
Tack down the glitter sheet using a standard 75/11 needle and 40wt thread.
After the placement stitch is complete, you can remove the hoop from the embroidery machine, but do not unhoop the fabric.
Continue stitching as you would for a typical appliqué design. The inner letter position run stitch will indicate where to place the fabric. Lay the fur fabric right inside the shape and tack it down with the next color.
Trim around the fur letter as close as possible. Then, stitch the satin outline to complete the fur fabric edges. Use a water-soluble stabilizer (WSS) on top for a neat result and to keep the fur under control while stitching.
Gently tear away the stabilizer from the back.
Remove as many pieces of tear-away as possible to allow the patch to adhere better.
I have not tried the FSL stabilizer option, but I guess it would work perfectly.
Cut out the patch shape. Here is how the back and front of the patch look:
Applying the Patch
Apply the patch to your garment. Press down on your iron and apply pressure to each part of the design for around 10-20 seconds. Some types of HTV will require more or less heat.
Press and hold, then move to the next area. It is recommended to cover your garment with a cover sheet or craft paper to prevent burning.
Turn your garment inside-out and iron it from the back side as well.